What makes people want to try a new brand is really what I would like to discuss here.
In case you were wondering, yes the perfume market is pretty crowded, as new “niche brands” continue to pop up at an astonishing rate. According to data taken from a Fragrance of the World presentation (at Exsence 2024), “since 2009, there has been a 970% increase in the numbers of niche brands on the market. As of 2023, niche brands are responsible for the highest number of new perfume launches every year. They are no longer the exception; they are the majority.”
What does that mean for consumers? Well, as fun as it is to discover something new, it’s probably not surprising that most consumers view new brands with a degree of scepticism. Gone are the days when small independent outfits were synonymous with alternative and original creations. Nowadays, new brands can as easily be “mass market” as they can be creative and original.
In this context, every perfume lover needs to be selective as to which brands she/he is willing to try , if for no other reason than trying everything is really no longer possible. So what elements are needed, at least in my opinion, to generate enough interest to sample a new brand? To answer this, I am reminded of a book called “The Purple Cow” by Seth Godin, which outlines the basic tenants of marketing and the secrets to growing a successful business. It’s obvious really. In order to succeed, your idea or product needs to be new and correspond to a need consumers have, even unconsciously.
But being innovative can be a challenge when talking about perfume. Scents have been around for thousand of years, so reinventing the wheel might seem like an impossible task. So if you can’t come up with a new product entirely, the next best thing is to offer an “upgraded version”.
In the perfume market, this could refer to new raw materials used or innovation in terms of packaging (green and reusable or covetable and artistic packaging, etc.) or even the particular appeal and uniqueness of the story telling and inspiration behind the brand, etc. In a nutshell, you need to set yourself apart.
It’s a daunting task, which is why I’ve decided to create a dedicated format on my blog (the “Nosy Chats” interviews) to meet the creators behind some of these new brands and examine whether, and how ,they meet this challenge.As per usual, none of these articles are sponsored and I will never review a brand with conditions attached.
With all this in mind, I have recently tried a new brand called “La Palette du Parfumeur” (the perfumer’s palette), which was created in 2024 by Samia Bebe, a French born perfumery retail veteran with families ties to Morocco. After a 25 year career working in the industry, mostly on the retail side, Samia decided to take the plunge and study perfume composition at 5eme Sens, the French perfumery school based in Paris with a branch in Grasse. (full disclosure, this is where I also studied and where I met Samia briefly). Following her graduation in 2022, Samia decided to follow her dream and create her own perfume brand, a decision no doubt informed by her many years’ experience in retail, which helped her understand what sells, what to avoid and what do customers want.
The name of the brand is inspired by the artist’s palette, who, regardless of the chosen art form, selects and interprets materials at his disposal to create his art work based on past experiences and emotions. Each perfume is based around a specific colour that conjures up an olfactive world.
My first comment, before smelling anything, would be that, although completely fine in terms of concept, i.e. linking emotions, memories and the olfactive expression they inspire, this has been done by other brands. Using colours to translate these emotions is probably the most novel aspect of this story telling.
Regarding packaging: the brand went for the classic luxury packaging option of heavy glass, heavy metal cap, no refill. It’s beautiful, slightly reminiscent of the packaging of brands such as Ex Nihilo to give you an idea. My observation is that, so far, although a lot of consumers clearly care about the environment, this concern has not yet really been adopted by many luxury brands whose number one priority is to make sure their packaging conveys the right message. So “green” is often seen as cheaper, mainly by distributors, who will pass on brands that don’t present in a certain way. I personally find that’s a shame, as explained in a previous article (https://www.pixidisperfumes.com/packaging-and-perfume-does-it-mater-and-what-is-real-luxury)
The brand launched five fragrances, which is quite a lot for a brand to launch with, but this is probably the area where Samia’s experience in the retail sector comes in handy. Retailers will always prefer to stock brands that have at least five different perfumes, as they present better on a shelf. So, even if this is a big ask for a small brand, having three at the very least or, better still, five fragrances to launch with, will help you with the distribution side of things.
It is the same knowledge of the industry that guided her to opt for an eau de parfum concentration (20%) that is preferred by customers who want long lasting perfumes and a for a 100 ml bottle format, as again, bigger formats are favoured by retailers (for instance some brands will have the option of both 50 and 100 ml bottles but retailers will often only carry the larger formats).
Samia worked with a medium-size lab based in Grasse for the production of the concentrate, as well as the conditioning and packaging. (this can be done by the same provider, but can also be divided up between various subcontractors).
Now what do the perfumes smell like? Let’s start with the two that I think are the most distinctive:
-Vert Amande:
A sophisticated gourmand scent, not too sweet, with a hint of green, which is quite original as there aren’t many perfumes in the same genre and almond-centric perfumes do seem to be having quite a moment, so it’s interesting to see a new take on this note.It’s a bit like the almond tree in all its splendour: from the green, citrusy side of the top notes to the almost marzipan-like sweetness (without going too gourmand) in the heart and base notes.
Well worth a try.
–Orange Marrocain: is a floral spicy scent centred around orange blossom and cinnamon, both important elements in Moroccan cuisine and a lovely and original pairing. According to Samia this was the most complex perfume to get right, as spices had to be balanced carefully given the allergens present in those materials that are currently restricted under EU regulations. The harmony between cinnamon, honey and orange notes was also a particularly challenging exercise. I don’t know if I would personally wear Orange Marrocain myself because I have a bit of a problem with orange blossom perfumes, but it’s a very interesting scent and I think it would also capture beautifully the festive atmosphere of the end of the year, with its sparkling citrus and sweet cinnamon notes… Let’s hope they bring out candles!
– Violet Lipstick: given my love of iris/violet notes this is a shoo-in for me. It’s got that vintage lipstick vibe (with a red fruit opening and little touches of leather/suede), but at the same time it’s completely contemporary. It’s the essence of femininity: a cute leather bag and a lipstick! It’s a familiar accord and you wouldn’t be wrong to compare it to the likes of EdPFM’s Lipstick Rose or Chanel’s Misia, not bad references to have!
–La vie en Rose: the current brand’s best seller. The name somehow suggested to me a rose perfume, but it’s actually a musky “second skin” perfume in the vein of Glossier’s You. I don’t really have very much to say about it as “clean/you-but-better” perfumes are not something I gravitate towards, but I’m very clearly in a minority, as they are hugely popular. I guess you could layer this, if you wanted to, with most perfumes, or wear it on its own if you were after a very delicate olfactive signature.
–Bleu Infini: I thought, given the name, it would be a marine-like smell but not at all! The blue refers to the berry notes that are present, and this is a happy and fruity perfume with notes of blueberry, grapefruit and orange. Doesn’t have a massive personality in my view and so again not for me, but most definitely an easy wear you could choose for any occasion and probably something more geared towards a younger customer base.
Perfumes all retail for 189 eur for 100 ml, which is in line with current niche perfume prices and are at present mainly distributed in France in 6 perfumeries with plans to expand to Morocco, Canada, Australia, the UK and Italy. According to the brand owner the next perfume will be an enveloping, woody and spicy scent, so watch out if you like those notes. (You can purchase all the perfumes described above on the brand’s website: https://www.lapaletteduparfumeur.com)
So what are my final thoughts on the brand? I’m in awe of anyone who actually launches their perfume brand, especially in such a crowded market. The “Palette du Parfumeur” is clearly the baby of someone who loves perfume and has invested a lot of heart, soul and expertise into this. Personally, and I don’t know the owner well enough to know what her ties to Morocco are, I would encourage the brand to lean into its Moroccan heritage in terms of source of inspiration and raw materials. The two most distinctive perfumes from the range (Orange Marrocain and Vert Amande), in my view, are those that are inspired by that land and it is also that element that sets them apart. I guess although Serge Lutens had first dibs on claiming Morocco as an inspiration, followed Andy Tauer and its beautiful l’Air du Desert Marrocain and le Marroc pour Elle, more “voices” and interpretations would be welcomed.
So happy discovery to all and I will keep you posted on the new brands I have scouted in my next Nosy Chat interview…
