RESOURCES FOR THOSE STUDYING PERFUMERY
ONLINE RESOURCES
Before committing to an in-person (expensive) course, have a look at online resources. Some courses are free, others offer short “taster” modules that help you explore if this is for you:
-UK: Karen Gilbert is great place to start. She offers online courses and master classes for a first approach to perfume making. (https://www.karengilbert.co.uk/)
– USA: Institute of Art and Olfaction: offers online and on-site (in NYC) courses for beginners as well as experienced perfumers. The time difference if you are in Europe makes it hard to attend and prices are quite steep. (https://artandolfaction.com/)
– Asia: Perfumers World
They are based in Malaysia and also organise online + on-site courses and offer a range of services for people interested in perfume creation. They have a series of beginners’ YouTube videos that are useful. They also sell raw materials.
– Christophe Laudamiel, world-renowned perfumer, discusses perfume making and his pets peeves regarding the perfume industry. Check his website (https://www.dreamair.mobi/christophe-laudamiel) or his channel:( https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCF63tVTjbNCh_HlxKhhNBgQ).
There are several you tube channels that talk about perfume making, such as:
-Scentspiracy: Perfumer Fulvio Ciccolo discusses some raw materials in his blog, offers to purchase formulas to replicate simple accords mainly, and sells a range of raw materials as well as his own perfumes. https://www.scentspiracy.com/
– Peter from Fragrance View (brand Centauri). Reviews perfumes but also offers his take on scent creation from a self-taught perfumer’s perspective. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_Zj9atmpE2MQBtzTfqDFfw
– Sam Macer (Lux et Terra website). Another self-taught perfumer, Sam offers a range of videos discussing raw materials and their use in perfume compositions. Also offers on his website a series of raw materials and lab equipment for the amateur perfumer.
-Have a look at Master Perfumer Calice Becker explanation’s at Esxence (2024) of what they do at Givaudan’s school (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xs8gFgbmKU)
BOOKS
a) Perfume making
– Felix Colas “Le livre du parfumeur”: In French, very dated but interesting to search for some accords for the recreation of lesser known florals etc., or as a history book.
– Calkin and Jellinek “Perfumery: Practice and Principles”, useful for the evolution of raw materials + their role in perfume composition, dated though.
– G. Ohloff “Scent and Chemistry”. Very chemistry-oriented but still interesting if you are serious about perfume making.
– J.-C. Ellena: “Scent the Alchemy of scent”; “diary of a nose”, a must read.
b) About Raw materials
– S. Arcanter: “Perfume and Flavour Materials of natural origin”
– Poucher’s “Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps”
Bit dated but provides guidance about raw materials and their use.
c) Perfume bibles for a look at the most important perfume creations by genre, brand or time period
– “The Perfume Companion” by Sarah McCartney
– “Perfumes the A-Z guide”, Luca Turin/ T. Sanchez
– “Perfume”, Neil Chapman
d) Magazine (quarterly) “NEZ” + their supplements dedicated to raw materials (ex. Rose, patchouli, lavender, etc.)
PERFUMERY COURSES
It all depends what you want to do. If you are very young (>25), have a degree in chemistry and want to make perfumery your profession, try entering ISIPCA or ESP. Alternatively, GIP is the only one what will take candidates without a chemistry degree. See my interview with a recent GIP graduate for details about applying and the course at GIP (it also offers shorter summer courses)
Finally 5ème Sens, my school, (both in Paris and Grasse in collaboration with “Passion Nez” there ) is the school that is designed predominantly with shorter courses in mind, catering to all sorts of needs. Their most comprehensive course is called “Designer Olfactif” and it is the one closer to the courses offered at GIP/ISIPCA.
See the article in NEZ magazine.
– GIP (degree chemistry required, best suited for people, under 30) https://www.grasse-perfumery.com/
– ISIPCA (idem) https://www.isipca-alumni.fr/fr/
– Ecole Supérieure du Parfum (idem) https://ecole-parfum.com/
– 5EME SENS/Passion Nez https://www.cinquiemesens.com; https://passionnez.com
– Programs of Raw Material producers such as Givaudan, Firmenich etc. Often hiring students that have already completed the formal training at ISIPCA, etc.
BUYING RAW MATERIALS
I’m not endorsing, nor am I obviously paid by these retailers to promote them. I’m just sharing with you the providers that I have come across during my own research, as buying small quantities of quality raw materials is a challenge.
UK:
– Pellwall https://pellwall.com/
– Eden Botanicals https://www.edenbotanicals.com/
EU:
– Hermitage Oils (naturals) (Italy) https://hermitageoils.com/
– PCW direct (natural and synthetics) (France) https://www.directpcw.com/en/
– De Hekserij (synthetic) (NL) https://www.hekserij.nl/
– Quosentis (natural and synthetic) (France) https://www.quosentis.com/produits-synthetiques-c102x3154106
-Ateneo dell’Olfatto (Italy) https://www.ateneodellolfatto.com
If you have a VAT number :
– Robertet (France) https://www.e-robertet.com/
– Biolandes (natural) (France) https://www.biolandes.com/
USA
– Perfumer’s Apprentice (https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/)